Why this Train?
This 3700 km, 31 hour journey takes you through the major landscapes of the northern half of China, finishing in one of the most landlocked and isolated large cities in the world. Once you arrive in Urumqi you will be closer to Jerusalem than you are to Beijing. While it might not be much of an attraction in its own right, Urumqi is the centre of infrastructure in Xinjiang province, and a good jumping off point for a day trip to the desert town of Turpan or a further scenic train journey to Kashgar.
Getting Tickets:
Trains to Urumqi leave the Beijing Xi (West) Station twice per day: once at 10AM and again at 9PM. I recommend train Z69 leaving at 10AM and arriving at Urumqi station at 5PM the next day.
Tickets cost 575RMB for the hard sleeper and 976RMB for soft sleeper. For a small fee, tickets can be booked on trip.com up to 60 days before departure. In order to get the ticket you want on the day you want I recommend you book in advance. Once your tickets have been issued you can pick them up at any train station in China using your confirmation number and passport.
On the Train:
On the train you will be sharing either a compartment with bunk beds for 4 people (if you booked the soft sleeper) or a 6 bed compartment with no door (if you booked the hard sleeper). The amenities are not fancy but it is comfortable. Hot water is available on board, and you can buy beer and instant noodles as well as other snacks. When the train makes stops, sellers on the platform offer a similar selection. I suggest bringing water and snacks as the selection on board is quite limited. WeChat pay is accepted.
Travel for Foreigners in Xinjiang
One of the most intimidating things for any western traveller reading about Xinjiang are the many descriptions of in intense security in the region. In my experience foreigners are closely watched, but if you are not a journalist you have nothing to worry about in terms of your security. It is a very safe region to visit (in part due to the large amount of police and monitoring) – just be prepared for some bureaucracy.
It begins when you first get on the train. Shortly after leaving Beijing, police will take photos of your passport so it can be registered with the authorities. Once you arrive in Urumqi, you will be flagged down as you exit the station and your information noted again. While it is a bit of a headache, most of the police are friendly and just doing their job. If you do not speak Chinese, they have a very limited ability to ask you questions, so limited communication is actually an advantage.
While these checks are an annoying part of travelling in Xinjiang, they are not much more than an annoyance and should not deter you from seeing this spectacular region. Many of the things to see are outside the city, so I suggest you read on about a very simple day trip that can be done by train from Urumqi. Or, if you are feeling more adventurous, you can travel towards the Khorgas border and onwards to Central Asia.
