For travelers on the Silk Road looking to avoid Turkmenistan, it is convenient to travel from Uzbekistan to Aktau, Kazakhstan on the Caspian Sea. Compared to getting the expensive Turkmenistan visa, getting into Kazakhstan (visa free for many nationalities) is relatively painless. From Aktau flights and occasional ships can take you across the Caspian Sea. The trip could also be done in the opposite direction, from Aktau to Uzbekistan.
Nukus
Nukus is the capital of the Karakalpakstan region of Uzbekistan, located in the far west of the country. Anyone looking to travel through this part of Uzbekistan will find themselves in Nukus for a time. If you are here during the day, it is certainly worthwhile to go see the extensive collection in the Nukus Museum of Art. There are two buildings on the site and joint entry to both will cost 72 000 Uzbek Som. There are a few decent cafes near the museum square as well.
Getting to Nukus from Khiva or Urgench is quite simple. Trains from Urgench to Nukus go once a day, usually at 1125 AM and cost about 50 000 Uzbek Som. Check the Uzbekistan Railways website for more details. You can get a minibus or taxi to go from Khiva to Urgench. Another option is a private transfer by taxi, which I would not usually suggest but it is very convenient and economical. The whole taxi will cost about 40 USD. The ride is smooth and will take about 4 hours.
From Nukus to Aktau
There are two options for getting from Nukus to Aktau. The first is to take the direct train from Nukus to Mangystau (Мангистау on the Uzbekistan Railways website). Mangystau is about 10km from central Aktau. This train goes three times a week on Saturday, Monday, and Wednesday and will cost around 300 000 Uzbek Som. The train leaves Nukus at 4AM and takes 28 hours.
The second option is to take the train from Nukus to Beyneu (Бейнеу) the first town in Kazakhstan, and then organizing an onward transport to Aktau. This option has the advantage of being more flexible because Nukus to Beyneu trains go every day, and sometimes twice a day. Upon arrival in Kazakhstan there are many more transportation options to get to Aktau, including Kazakh domestic trains and shared taxis. From Nukus to Beyneu a ticket in an open sleeping compartment costs 286 000 Uzbek Som for the train leaving Nukus at 4AM. Some trains only offer certain classes of travel, or sometimes only seats. Use the Uzbek Railways website to plan you journey.
If you are leaving Nukus at 4AM, and want to avoid spending money on accommodation, you can pass the time in one of several large BBQ restaurants located across the street from the station. These restaurants have extensive menus, cold beer, and reasonable prices. Guards will also let you into the station to sleep once it gets reasonably late in the evening (around 9-10 PM).
Uzbek-Kazakh Border
The border formalities take around 4-5 hours total, and the bathrooms on the train are closed during this time. The 4AM train arrives at the border around noon. Leaving Uzbekistan is simple, passports are collected and taken into the immigration building to be stamped while passengers stay on the train. Luggage is given a cursory check. Entering Kazakhstan, the passport check is done on the train, and you will be given the migration card to fill out. Make sure to keep the Kazakh migration card for the duration of your stay in Kazakhstan. The border guards are mostly friendly and speak very limited English. Saying you are a tourist is sufficient to explain your presence at this border.
Beyneu to Aktau
The 4AM train from Nukus arrives in Beyneu around 7PM. The Beyneu station is not much more than a small building housing a few ticket counters. There is a train to Aktau that leaves at 9PM but tickets are not always available for this train and might be sold out. It is possible to book in advance on the Kazakh railways website.
Alternatively you can take a shared taxi to Aktau. This will cost 5000 Kazakh Tenge (drivers might initially ask for 10 000) and take about 5 hours. Taxis leave when full from the parking lot in front of the station, and make one or two stops for gas and snacks. If you have the name of your hotel in Aktau written in Cyrylic, you can ask the taxi driver to drop you off at your hotel provided it is not too far out of the way.
Overall this journey can draining even for experienced travelers, but seeing the blue expanse of the Caspian Sea after the brown tones of Uzbek desert provides quite the thrill. If you are traveling in the opposite direction towards Uzbekistan, make sure to check out some tips for traveling in Uzbekistan.
